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Cocktail Attire for Men: Mostly Formal, Mostly Confusing

Unlike formal and casual, men’s cocktail attire can cause confusion. Is it different from business casual or semi-formal? The answer? Yes, with exceptions.

Here’s a funny story. When I was a kid, I thought cocktail attire for men meant slippers and a smoking gown. See, every day, like clockwork, my father would arrive home from work at 6:30 p.m. and change out of his leather dress shoes into his house slippers. My mother would greet him at the door, take his suit jacket, and give him his smoking gown. Then they’d have their pre-dinner martinis or their whiskey neats

Of course, I’d soon learn that if a wedding reception is “cocktail,” that doesn’t mean I’d show up in house slippers. It definitely falls on the more formal side of the dress code spectrum, which begs questions: Can you wear a full suit? What about a suit with no tie? Does a broken suit count? Can I mix in casual pieces? The answer to all of these questions is yes, but it depends. I know. That’s the most confusing answer.

Don’t worry. It’s all about learning the context, which is actually fairly easy. But first, precisely what is cocktail attire for men?

What Is Cocktail Attire for Men?

Cocktail attire is the dress code between semi-formal and formal. That is, it’s less stuffy than formal but dressier than semi-formal. When in doubt, wear a business suit and tie. However, these days, there’s a lot of flexibility regarding whether to wear a suit with a tie or not.

In fact, you can describe cocktail attire as being more formal than business casual or a more fun version of business formal. 

For example, you can wear a white dress shirt, solid tie, and navy suit to an important board meeting. You can also wear it to an event with a cocktail dress code. However, unlike at the meeting, you can go for a colorful plaid pattern tie. You might even consider bright pocket squares. Or perhaps you keep the solid tie but go for a patterned shirt.

In formal work situations where the dress code calls for professional attire, I recommend that men respect their bosses sartorially. This means they shouldn’t run around in a diamond-encrusted tie clip and jewel-set pie-pan Rolex if your boss dresses simply. 

On the other hand, cocktail attire is on the formal side, but there’s no fear of looking unprofessional. You can lean into the fancier, more celebratory aesthetics. I know it seems confusing that cocktail ranks closer to formal than semi-formal since the word “formal” is in semi-formal. However, understanding a little history will explain everything.

Cocktail Attire Men: A Brief History

Smart 2 David wearing a floral print with a suit

If you think about the fact that cocktail parties tend to happen in the evening, it makes sense that it’s more formal than semi-formal. Evening events, all things considered, are dressier than daytime events. That’s why formal dress is also called “evening wear.” Formal dress means a conservative suit and tie from a professional perspective and a type of tuxedo from a party perspective. 

Once upon a time, there was just formal and casual. Cocktail came about, funnily enough, during prohibition when cocktails weren’t even legal. I know. Sounds awful. However, the wealthy, the influential, and the creatives were, of course, still drinking. Unlike the “commoners,” they had the channels to access illicit drinks. 

They had to do it clandestinely. So, keeping their imbibing from the coppers, these well-heeled citizens created cocktail hour in city speakeasies and fancy supper clubs. They dressed in a more casual version of formal attire. 

Moreover, an influx of European designers flooded into the US. European businesses relied on American patronage in the post-war era. They built garments similar to daytime clothing in more formal fabrics to accommodate this new drinking ritual. In the 1940s, Christian Dior dubbed this new category of clothes cocktail attire.

Cocktail Party Attire for Men Today: Focus on Balance

Today, cocktail party attire for men does, in fact, range. This is partly why it causes confusion. However, it’s also a good thing because it means you can incorporate your own personal style into it. Just remember to bring balance to your outfit.

For example, let’s say you go for a broken suit. Perhaps you’re wearing a dark olive or navy suit jacket and cream suit pants. I highly recommend wearing a tie with this outfit since the broken suit is already more casual than a solid suit. If you wear a blazer or sport coat over a suit jacket, I implore you to wear a type of tie.

Now, let’s say you’re wearing a white dress shirt with a solid, formal, black business suit. It might even be charcoal or maroon. A lot of the time, you won’t necessarily need a tie. Instead, have fun with accessories. Consider incorporating your most unusual or fanciest watches, pocket squares, velvet pumps, or lapel pins.

A truly important time to think about the balancing act is cocktail attire at a multi-event celebration. I’ve been to a few of these at lavish weddings in the English countryside and at traditional club ceremonies.

Sometimes, there’s a day event with a semi-formal dress code and an evening event with a cocktail dress code. So, while both dress codes vary, ensure you save your more formal attire for the cocktail.

Perhaps there’s a champagne brunch with a semi-formal code at a wedding, followed by a cocktail reception. If you wear a broken suit for the brunch, make sure you wear a solid suit, complete with a tie, for the reception. If you wear an olive suit for the former, go for a darker one for the latter.

Sometimes, semi-formal, business casual, and cocktail attire really depend on each other.

Summer Cocktail Attire for Men

History of Seersucker
Photo by gregory21 / Depositphotos.com

One sub-category of cocktail that can be difficult to navigate is summer cocktail attire for men. Suits can be heavy and hot, while dark colors suck in heat and aren’t seasonal. Fortunately, there are many ways to wear a suit in the summer without overheating.

The most essential hack? Get yourself a summer suit. Sometimes, you can get away with a lighter-colored traditional wool suit during the summer. When it isn’t too hot, and I’m indoors, I’ll wear my marine blue suit jacket to cocktail parties. In fact, dark colors are still okay in the summer if the cocktail event is on the formal side. After all, black-tie events still happen in the evening, too.

However, if it’s a sweltering evening, or you’re on a boat, or even at a boat club, you’ll need a proper summer suit. They tend to be less structured and made of light, cool, breathable materials. Linen is a common summer staple. Its slight texturing gives it an organic, summery aesthetic.

You can also seek out a cotton or lightweight wool suit blended with light textiles such as bamboo or silk. Silk and bamboo alone add a beautiful and subtle sheen if you prefer a more formal look.

Seersucker is a preppy staple that’s highly appropriate in the summer. This is especially true at events taking place beachside or on a boat. Speaking of boats, you might incorporate nautical elements. It’s a seasonal way to have fun with your cocktail attire, the same way you might incorporate florals in spring.

You might also consider unstructured linen shirts, espadrilles, leather slip-ons, dress shorts, and a classic straw hat. Consider a Panama-style hat, a straw trilby, or a boater hat.

FAQs

Here are a few quick answers to common questions about men’s cocktail attire.

Do I Need a Suit for Cocktail Attire?

A suit is the safest way to go for men’s cocktail attire. At the very least, incorporating suit separates is an easy and efficient way to ensure sufficient formality to your outfit.

Are Jeans Okay for Cocktail Attire?

It depends. These days, you might get away with a slim, dark pair of jeans in certain events with cocktail dress codes. Just balance it out with a suit jacket, dress shirt, dress shoes, and likely a tie.

Why Is It Called Cocktail Attire?

Cocktail attire is related to cocktail hour, which happens at a proper dinner party before the first course. However, a cocktail hour can be an event or even extended to a party in the evening. This is why it’s more formal than semi-formal, which can occur during the day.

Conclusion: When in Doubt, Wear a Suit

Wear a suit if you aren’t sure how formal the cocktail event you’re attending is. It’s as easy as that. Have some fun with your tie or even your shirt, but when it comes to cocktail attire for men, no one will bat an eye at a suit. Even if you’re the only guy at the party in a suit, no one will think you look out of place. 

Moreover, you can always take your tie off and pocket it. If you forgo a suit jacket, you can’t snap your fingers and magically make one appear.

Questions? Comments? Let me know below!

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