The Roaring Twenties, also known as the Jazz Age, are remembered for technology, innovation, high fashion, and wild parties. Many people cite this decade as the start of the “Golden Age of Menswear.” Some even argue that the suit as we know it today started blossoming in the ’20s. But, while The Great Gatsby and the styles therein come to mind, was 1920s fashion truly all flash and glam?
Read on to find out!
What Did Men Wear in the 1920s? Decoding the Roaring Twenties Style
World War I was over, freedom, celebration, and frivolity ensued, and young people simply enjoyed their lives and the moment. People wanted to dress up again. Along with partying and dancing, fashion was rapidly evolving, not just for women, who had just recently gained the right to vote, but also for men.
Fashion has become a means to express oneself through style.
No longer did you have to wear tones of green, brown, and khaki. But, you could pick up whatever you wanted and just say, “This is who I am. This is how I feel. And I’m enjoying life.”
Common Misconceptions about 1920s Style and Clothes
Before we proceed, let’s first deal with some misconceptions about 1920s style and clothes. Maybe you’ve watched a virally popular video from Glam about 100 years of men’s fashion. While the production crew was excellent, the subject matter and the clothes were mostly inaccurate.
Maybe you’ve watched some gangster movies or maybe Boardwalk Empire, and you think all that men wore back then were pinstripe suits and Tommy guns.
No, they didn’t, really. Instead, we promise to talk about what real men were back then. Of course, different countries have different climates and different clothing traditions. We focus here mostly on the US and compare it to Europe.
What Were Popular 1920s Men’s Hats?
Regarding headwear, the 1920s were still quite interesting for men because almost everyone wore them. Hat styles hadn’t changed much since the Edwardian era, and you still had people wear top hats sometimes. Even the bowler hat was still worn. Of course, more so in England than in the US.
Fedora: The Most Popular Hat of the Decade
The most popular hat of the decade was definitely the fedora. While most people today would look at a man wearing a fedora as being quite formally dressed, at the time, the fedora was a casual alternative. It had a snap brim because the felt was soft and not stiff and starched. It was much floppier and was crushable, and you could adjust the creases, which made it popular back then.
Even though you can still find fedoras today, 1920s fedoras typically had narrower or shorter brims and higher crowns. Regarding the hatbands, they were often quite wide, and regular working-class men wore them every day.
Looking at all the photographs from the 1920s, you can see that the shape of each fedora is slightly different because a man individually shaped it. It wasn’t just a factory shape that you got and wore that way. You just made the hat and its particular style your own.
Pancake-like One-piece Flat Cap
Another casual hat was the flat cap. Unlike what you see on Peaky Blinders, not all flat caps were 8-piece ones with a wide brim.
casual men’s headwear of the 1920
Flat Cap
The most popular style was the pancake-like one-piece flat cap, which meant it was round and flat on top. It was also a bit wider and more like a beret than what the same style of flat cap would look like today. It came in many styles, including tweed, wool, linen, and cotton, and in many different patterns, such as houndstooth, Prince of Wales check, Donegal tweeds, and so forth.
The Newsboy Cap for the Working-Class
The newsboy cap, a close relative of the flat cap, also rose to fame in the 1920s. With its full, rounded shape and short brim, it offered a slightly more structured look than the flat cap. Often made from tweed or wool, newsboy caps were favored by working-class men and, of course, the paperboys that inspired its name.
Flat Cap & Newspaper Boy Hat Style Guide
Straw Boater as the 20′ Summertime Essential
For summertime style, the straw boater was king. These stiff, flat-topped hats with their jaunty bands projected a carefree and relaxed air, perfect for warm weather and leisure activities.
The Impact of WWI on 20’s Facial Hair Trends
So, what about 1920s facial hair, you might wonder? During the Edwardian and Victorian eras, a mustache was the height of manliness.
During World War I, toxic and lethal gas was used like never before, and the Piccadilly whisker often prevented people from quickly putting on their gas masks. So, it wasn’t as popular anymore. Similarly to 2021, having a beard really impedes wearing masks effectively. Because of that, soldiers were told to shave out their beards so that the gas mask would work more efficiently.
So, when men returned from the war and settled back into their lives in the 1920s, they were used to just shaving every day and not having any facial hair. If men wanted facial hair, you saw a little mustache. But, you didn’t see much hair on your chin, which was typically something only worn by older men at the time.
Where’d the ‘Stache Go?
What Kind of Suits Did Men Wear in the 1920s? Fitted and Sleek, but Still Heavy
The 1920s saw a significant shift in men’s suits.
The jackets of the ’20s were cut much more closely to the body to accentuate the natural waist. If you look at them today, they’re much closer to a body coat than a modern suit.
The buttoning stance was a bit lower than the 19-teens, and it had about two to three buttons. Sometimes, the fronts of jackets were cut away and probably inspired by morning coats.
Suit Fabrics: Wool, Silk, Tweed
The most popular fabric was, of course, sheep’s wool, but they were a lot heavier than what you could get today, and the finish was a lot coarser.
The jacket’s body was usually lined in silk, and the sleeves were cotton because you needed something a bit more sturdy in your arms, which is where you typically wear things out first. Also, because you sweat a little bit more on the arms, things are more likely to get soiled or dirty in that part.
Tweed was a really popular material for country wear.
For summer, you also had cotton and linen suits. The fabrics were slightly less stiff and lighter weight at the time, but compared to today, they were still heavyweights.
In the 19-teens and maybe early ’20s, you might have seen jackets that had a bit more of a cutaway front. But, as the decade progressed, they became more closed, which is more in line with what you know from a modern suit. The fronts weren’t fully square, but they were definitely more square than before.
Frankly, if you look at those suits, they’re very similar to modern business suits.
Suit Patterns & Details: Subtle Stripes, Tweeds, and Evolving Styles
As for patterns, plain, tweeds, smaller micro patterns, windowpanes, and stripes were all around. Subtle pinstripes were particularly popular, which explains their omnipresence in gangster movies.
If you look at their jackets, you can definitely see a higher buttoning point, more around the area of your sternum. While in the early 20s, the waist was much higher overall, by the late 20s, you can see a lower buttoning stance and wider lapels, which makes it look more like suits or jackets from 2020.
The clothes enthusiast in you will recognize their subtle differences. Just compare the gorge height, the shape of the lapel, pockets, vents, lengths, and fabric, and you’ll see the difference, but Joe Average on the street would likely not spot them.
Typically, the sleeve cuffs at about three buttons were spaced much more widely and more like the 19-teens than they’re spaced today. However, there was no cuff stitch–that was truly something of the Edwardian period.
Unlike today, most jackets back then had no vents because they made them look sleeker, even though when you put your hand in your pocket, your bum might have been slightly exposed. Overall, I really enjoy the fabric choices of the decade. They’re often darker, but they have subtle underpatterns and different colors, which create this rich depth that is harder to find these days.
The “Jazz Suit”
Another popular style of the 1920s was the so-called “jazz suit.” Its defining features were its very slim silhouettes and very high waists, which were intended to give the wearer the ultimate hourglass shape.
At the time, these were novelty suits marketed to young men and worn by young men. Often, it had slanted pockets, which created a certain dynamic that was pretty much in line with the hourglass shape. Of course, they had more darts to get this really suppressed shape. Sometimes, they even had belts like a Norfolk jacket, which would help you accentuate the waist even more.
’20s Shirts: Softer with More Attached Collars
The ’20s weren’t too dissimilar from the 1910s in terms of day shirts. Overall, you could still find detachable collars. Typically, older men or upper-class gentlemen would prefer them. Younger men would want the softer turndown collar. Sometimes, also an attached one.
Cuff-wise, you had single cuffs for cufflinks, French cuffs or double cuffs for cufflinks, and single barrel cuffs that were buttoned with buttons. Some men still wore starched bib fronts that were attached to shirts, but they were nowhere near as popular as they used to be in previous decades.
While in Europe, you could still see many detachable collar shirts, in the US, men preferred a shirt with an attached collar and an attached cuff and attached bosoms, and it was overall a more casual shirt. But, it was much closer to the shirt that we were today than the previous decade. Even for Joe Average, it was now affordable to get a striped shirt where everything was attached.
The collars, especially the turndown ones, were not as high as in previous decades. You also had a trend of the soft collar. So, previously, they were heavily starched and polished. These modern collars were not starched, were made out of the same fabric as the body, and they had longer tips that were, of course, a lot more floppy because there was no stability from the starch.
You could also find detachable soft turndown collars, and sometimes they were made in the same fabric as the shirt, or they could be contrasting.
If you’ve watched shows set in the 1920s, like Boardwalk Empire, you see that many men wear collar pins and clips. Men still wore them with ties, though, so the collar clip became really popular. It held the collar tips down, elevated the tie knot slightly, and was just a fashionable look overall.
Personally, I think it’s a very stylish look that is different from what most men wear today. And if you’re interested in it, we have a great selection of those in the Fort Belvedere shop.
1920s Waistcoats and Vests: Now Optional, with a New Cut
Waistcoats or vests were no longer mandatory in the 1920s, and you could see men out and about skipping them altogether. That was especially true during the summer months. If men still wore waistcoats, they were typically cut lower.
Remember, in the 1910s, they were cut really high. In the ’20s, you would see more of the V, more of the tie, and more of the shirt front. The waistcoat’s bottom also started to create longer, pointier tips, which led to leaving the bottom button of the waistcoat undone. In the US then, though, men might not have caught on to that fashion yet and buttoned their waistcoats all the way down.
Overall, if men wore vests, they matched the suit, so you had a proper three-piece suit. But you could also find odd vests, creating a slightly more casual look.
As you know, I’m a big fan of waistcoats and vests, especially odd ones. With very little money, you can make an outfit look completely different, and if you want to learn more about that, you’ll surely find our guide to wearing vests enjoyable.
Trousers/Pants/Slacks in the 1920s: Still Slim Overall
Starting in the 1900s, belts became more popular in America, taking over from side adjusters and suspenders. Across the pond in the UK and most of Europe, suspenders were still probably the number one means of keeping pants in the proper position. Nevertheless, belts were catching on there as well.
At the start of the ’20s, trouser fashion was still heavily influenced by the Edwardian era “drainpipe” style, which was very slim and tapered towards the bottom. But remember, they didn’t have pleats. In the mid-’20s, you actually started seeing single pleats in pants.
the rise of
Single Pleats
The idea was to help with the drape of a pressed trouser leg. As you know, when you have a nice crease, and you wear it, and you sit, that crease becomes less pronounced. By having a pleat, you have a nice crease for a longer time, making everything look better.
If you look at the cuffs from the period, they were neither very slim nor very tall. They were relatively modest. I would guess between one and one and a half inches. Towards the end of the decade, trouser legs had gotten slightly bigger at the bottom but were still quite tapered.
Vintage enthusiasts may be familiar with the trend of students at the University of Oxford wearing excessively wide trousers, which started in the mid-1920s. Even though you can find plenty of pictures of impressively baggy Oxford bags out there, in the ’20s, they were typically around 23 inches. This trend continued into the 40s and 50s.
I think the biggest pant leg I’ve seen was 43 inches. I mean, at that point, you might as well wear a skirt or maybe a kilt!
What Kind of Shoes Did Men Wear in the 1920s?
In terms of footwear, boots were slightly less popular in the 1920s than in the 1910s. Streets had gotten better; there were fewer horses and less manure on the streets, so it was okay to have regular Oxfords or brogues or, for that matter, spectators.
Two-tone shoes
Two-tone shoes were definitely more popular than they are today, but it’s not like every man wore them. If you just look at their style, you’ll think, “Oh, they wear Oxfords. We wear Oxfords!” But, if you go into the details, you can see they had a higher heel, and the toe had typically a more rounded shape.
Also, the broguing was sometimes a little smaller, the stitching was a little neater, and vintage shoes were a bit different overall from what you see today.
The quality of shoes the average man wore was a lot higher back then than today. Most men would still wear dress shoes, there were no real sneakers, and production happened in the US or Europe. We haven’t had this globalized economy quite yet where we could make really cheap shoes in places.
Chuck Taylors or Converse
Even though rubber sole shoes date back to the 1870s in Britain, “Chuck Taylors” or Converse All-Stars were invented during the 1920s.
A lot of people look at Chuck Taylor’s All-Stars as an all-purpose shoe today. But, back then, it was specifically designed for basketball. It was supposed to be more flexible in the ankle and prevent skidding or sliding around when playing the sport. Most men would not have worn those shoes on the street just to walk around.
Why Did Men Start Wearing Sneakers (Trainers)?
What Were Popular 1920s Men’s Accessories?
Canes: From Walking Aid to Fashion Statement
Today, if a man has a cane, it’s typically for practical or utilitarian purposes. In the ’20s, though, men would carry canes for decorative purposes. It truly was a fashion item, and, of course, it had to have the right length. Some were flexible, others were stiff, and some had elaborate decorations, maybe built-in flasks, knives, etc.
Why did men stop carrying canes?
Pocket Squares: Silk Adds Style and Choice
Regarding pocket squares, the mass manufacturing of items allowed the introduction of silk pocket squares to a broader range of men. So, they no longer had to wear just plain white cotton or linen squares. They could have printed silk squares.
Timepieces: The Rise of the Wristwatch
When it came to timepieces, the pocket watch with the watch chain was still popular, but wristwatches definitely gained ground. And it makes sense as men wore fewer and fewer waistcoats, there was no natural spot for their pocket watch, so they just wore a wristwatch instead.
Introduction to Classic Watches
Eyewear: Affordable Style with Celluloid
In terms of eyewear, the invention of celluloid, which originated in 1856 as one of the earliest thermoplastics, really helped to create more styles than during the Edwardian era.
While it was first used for film stock, it was later utilized to replicate tortoiseshell, ivory, or horn products. That meant that even working-class men could get the latest-looking style without having to spend the big bucks that they previously would have to.
It was really much like the trend of gold-filled or rolled gold jewelry, which looked like a solid gold piece, but it was a lot more affordable even to the average man.
Of course, you could still find wireframe glasses, sometimes even covered in celluloid. But, you could also find frames that were fully made from celluloid itself.
Neckwear: Easier Tying, Bolder Styles
When it came to neckwear, ties and bow ties were still popular in the 1920s. Compared to the previous decade of the 1910s, bow ties had gotten slightly bigger. Also, because the collar of the shirts had become softer, it was easier to tie a tie yourself.
In the previous decade, you could have still found more clip-on ties or pre-tied ties because it was harder to put them on in a stiff collar. But, now, with a softer collar, it was easy-peasy.
The style of the tie changed sometimes and looked more like a modern knit tie with a solid width or just a slightly more graduating width because, again, it was easier to tie them.
Overall, ties looked less like an ascot from the previous decade and more like the tie you know today. That being said, ties back then were much lighter in construction. They often had no lining or were very lightly lined, and they were also, again, shorter than ties are today.
Interestingly, ties often also had unfinished edges on the blade. It wasn’t until the mid-’20s that interlinings became somewhat more popular or introduced into tie production. Style-wise, the ties were bold, colorful, and interesting.
In the ’20s, there was also a boom for the regimental or club ties. And if you think about it, it made sense. A void was left by the end of active service, and by being a club member or having some association, you felt like you belonged to something.
Black Tie & Formalwear in the Roaring Twenties
Morning Wear
By 1920, the rules for morning wear were well-established, but they definitely declined in popularity. The full morning code outfit was worn for celebratory or special events, not for a regular business Tuesday.
There was a slight change in style in previous decades. You saw morning coats that sometimes had two or three buttons. And now, you saw more one or two-button morning coats. Also, previously, you might have seen solid pants or maybe glen check pants. At the time, the striped pants with morning wear were solidly established.
Evening Wear
In terms of evening wear, White Tie was reserved for galas, dinners, or special occasions. At the same time, Black Tie was quite a bit more popular.
As it was still in somewhat of a transitional period, you would often see the Black Tie ensemble being worn with a stiff evening shirt, previously one with White Tie, and likewise, the Marcella starched waistcoat.
1920s Casual Menswear Trends: From Knitwear to Swimwear
While formal suits remained essential for formal occasions, the 1920s ushered in a notable shift towards a more relaxed and comfortable approach to men’s casual attire. This transformation manifested in several key areas, redefining the fashion landscape of the era.
1
Knitwear Takes Center Stage
Sweaters emerged as a stylish and practical favorite amid the colorful tapestry of 1920s men’s fashion. The silhouettes gravitated toward V-neck pullovers and cardigans, some even venturing into buttonless, free-form designs with generous shawl collars. This marked a departure from the stiff formality of previous decades, embracing a softer, more comfortable aesthetic.
2
The Rise of Sportswear
The rising popularity of sports and leisure activities in the 1920s significantly influenced men’s casual attire. Golf courses, tennis courts, and boat decks became the new runways, showcasing men in comfortable yet stylish sportswear such as sweaters, pleated trousers, knickerbockers, and sporty blazers.
3
The Automobile’s Influence
The increasing popularity of the automobile also influenced men’s casual attire. Driving required practical clothing, and as more men took to the roads, driving caps, goggles, and duster coats became fashionable accessories that signified a modern, mobile lifestyle.
4
Bathing Suits & Terry Cloth Robes
With the rise of beach culture, bathing suits, and terry cloth robes became popular for seaside leisure. Men embraced more relaxed fits and vibrant patterns in their swimwear, signifying a shift towards comfort and self-expression in all aspects of their wardrobe.
The Timeless Appeal of 1920s Men’s Fashion
To summarize, the Roaring Twenties saw a surge in men’s fashion trends characterized by elegance, sophistication, and practicality. This was fueled by the cultural revolution of the Jazz Age and Harlem Renaissance when Jazz musicians and artists influenced a shift towards casual menswear with their bold embrace of vibrant colors, patterns, and individuality.
Accessories like the versatile fedora and the charming newsboy cap became staples, while the rise of patterns, prints, and relaxed styles mirrored the changing cultural landscape and a yearning for self-expression.
men’s fashion icon during the 1920
Rudolph Valentino
Icons like Rudolph Valentino, “The Latin Lover,” and Douglas Fairbanks Jr. “The King of Old Hollywood” further fueled this fashion revolution. Valentino’s sleek suits, wide-legged trousers, and dramatic accessories inspired men to add a touch of romantic flair to their wardrobes.
men’s fashion icon during the 1920
Douglas Fairbanks Jr
At the same time, Fairbanks’ tailored sportswear and adventurous spirit encouraged a sense of dynamism and confidence in everyday attire. Even today, glimpses of their influence can be seen in modern menswear, from the enduring popularity of well-tailored suits to the resurgence of bolder patterns and accessories.
Overall, the ’20s were a lot of fun, and if you like the style, a great way to experience the visual flair of the period is through the German series Babylon Berlin. While not entirely historically accurate, the show offers a captivating glimpse into the era’s fashion, showcasing familiar and unexpected styles.
What to Wear To a Roaring 20’s Party: Steal This Style
If you’re wondering what men wore to a 1920s party, let me share an outfit inspired by the era.
It consists of a white shirt with a barrel button cuff, complemented by a darker tie in silk with a micro pattern. Adding to the ensemble is an off-white tennis sweater with dark navy elements on the v-neck, bottom, and cuffs.
I mean, without the jacket, people play tennis in that. Can you believe it? The tweed jacket is orange, and it has stripes in green and yellow. It’s very bold and fun. And I thought it worked well with my white flannel trousers. In fact, they’re more off-white. As you know, I’m a fan of pleats. So, I have two pleats, which again are not quite 1920s. But, a single pleat would have been definitely 1920s.
My cuffs are maybe a little bigger than in the 1920s, but I wear a pair of leather shoes. Here, they’re full-brogue derby shoes. I put in contrasting shoelaces to pick up the lighter-colored theme. My socks are orange and blue from Fort Belvedere, they pick up the color of the jacket.
You can find them in our shop, just like the silk wool pocket square, which is blue with green and off-white micro patterns, trying to tie the entire outfit together with my chosen colors. Last but not least, I have a flat cap, one piece. It’s a modern one, but it has a nice Donegal tweed that picks up the oranges and the greens.
What 1920s style do you find most interesting–and would you wear it today? Let’s talk about it in the comments!
1920s Vintage Menswear FAQs
Why is 1920s also called the Roaring Twenties?
The term “Roaring Twenties” captures the decade’s spirit of excitement, prosperity, and social change. It wasn’t just about fashion—think of flappers, jazz music, and booming cities. Some believe the name references the “roaring forties,” a geographical term for latitudes with strong winds, implying powerful forces at play during this transformative era.
What was the significance of Art Deco in 1920s fashion?
Art Deco had a significant impact on 1920s fashion, influencing designs with its geometric shapes, bold colors, and luxurious materials. It celebrated modernism and innovation, leading to streamlined silhouettes, geometric patterns, and opulent embellishments in clothing and accessories. Its influence permeated popular culture, shaping the aesthetic of the Jazz Age and leaving a lasting legacy in fashion and design.
Did all men wear suits in the 1920s?
No, definitely not! While suits were popular, many men wore more casual attire depending on their occupation and lifestyle. Working-class men often wore sturdy trousers, button-up shirts, overalls, or workwear in practical fabrics. Younger, fashion-forward men embraced sportswear and casual outfits, especially for leisure activities.
What’s the difference between 1920s suits and modern suits?
1920s suits had higher waists and striking wide lapels and often featured bolder patterns and textures than today’s more subdued styles.
Did men wear belts in the 1920s?
Yes, belts became more common in the 1920s, especially in the US. While suspenders were still popular (especially in Europe), the convenience and clean look of belts made them a fashionable alternative. However, you wouldn’t see the wide, statement belts of today – belts in the 1920s were typically narrower and subtler.
Did men wear shorts in the 1920s?
Yes, but with a caveat! Shorts were primarily sportswear or for very casual settings. They are closer to what we’d call “athletic shorts” today – shorter, looser, and often made of knitted fabrics. They’d be seen at the beach, for sports, or possibly for working-class men in hot weather, but not as part of everyday attire.
Where to buy 1920s clothes?
Acquiring 1920s-inspired attire can be accomplished through several avenues. Brick-and-mortar vintage (i.e., A. Marchesan) and thrift stores offer the potential to discover genuine garments from that era. Likewise, specialty costume shops (Abracadabra Superstore, NYC) cater to those seeking 1920s-themed apparel and accessories. For a curated selection of period clothing, several online retailers specialize in vintage or reproduction items (Amazon or Etsy).
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