We’re Off to the Races with Derby Shoes!
The world of men’s dress shoes is filled with stylish opportunities for you to put your best foot forward in any outfit. From loafers to boots and everything in between, Classic Style has many fabulous footwear options, but we think that there is just something special about derbies and their close cousins, the blucher.
A versatile shoe that is at home with a combinational sport coat as with a polo shirt, the derby is sometimes dismissed as a distant second to its famous relation, the more formal oxford dress shoe. But derbies possess a remarkable ability to add a visually unique, sporty, and fun spirit to any ensemble, and we feel that they merit a place in any Classic Gentleman’s shoe collection.
In this guide, you will learn what makes a derby a derby, the fascinating history of this shoe type, the types of derbies, including bluchers, that are commonly worn today, how to style derby shoes, and what to look for when shopping for a quality example of this remarkable dress shoe.
What is the correct way to say
Derby?
In English, two pronunciations of “derby” are common: “DER-bee” in North America and “DAR-bee” in Great Britain and most of the Commonwealth. Both pronunciations are entirely correct regionally and you should use whichever you prefer, just be sure to not adopt a particular pronunciation solely to appear “fancy,” as doing so will only come off as affected.
Interested in oxford shoes instead?
Distinguishing a Derby from an Oxford
While Similar, One Important Factor Distinguishes These Shoes
At first glance, especially to a layman, it can be difficult to discern what exactly distinguishes an oxford from a derby. They are both laced dress shoes, usually made from leather, with a rubber sole or leather soles and relatively similar overall profiles. But if you focus on the laces, you will quickly see how to tell these otherwise similar shoe types apart.
Closed versus Open Lacing Systems
While the oxford has a closed lacing system, the derby has an open lacing system in the form of two quarters that are sewn on to the vamp.
The uppers of a derby, like the oxford, consist of the quarters and the vamp. The vamp is that part of the shoe uppers that covers the toes and instep, and the quarters are the part of the shoe uppers that wrap around the heel and meet the vamp in the middle of the foot. The eyelets for the shoelaces are usually located on the quarters.
In an open lacing system, like that of the derby, the quarters are sewn on top of the vamp with the shoelace eyelets facings stitched on top of the quarters. This is in contrast to the closed lacing system, typical of the oxford, where the vamp is stitched on top of the quarters with the eyelet facing stitched under the quarters.
A Closer Inspection of Open and Closed Lacing Systems
When inspecting these two lacing systems, one significant difference stands out. In the open lacing system, the lace flaps are not conjoined at the bottom. They are joined by the laces, and this usually creates a slight gap between the two when the laces are tied, hence the term open lacing. In the closed lacing system, on the other hand, the lace flaps are joined at the bottom, and, thus, when the laces are tied, there is usually no visible gap between the two; that is to say, a closed lacing.
A quick note on
Formality
With their neat, trim appearance, closed-lacing systems are generally considered more formal than open-lacing systems. Ergo, derbies are overall more casual than oxfords, although practically speaking, you can wear a derby shoe on almost any occasion when you could wear an oxford. The only exception, according to the original conventions of Classic Style, would be Formal wear day and evening occasions in most circumstances.
Distinguishing a Derby from a Blucher
In the United States, the terms derby and blucher are often used interchangeably. It is true that both shoes feature an open lacing system. There is, however, a small but significant difference.
While the derby has two quarters that are sewn together and a vamp with a tongue, the blucher has small pieces of leather sewn onto the vamp to create the open lacing system. This distinction is minor and very technical, but it helps if you are at least academically aware of it.
How to properly pronounce
Blücher
Most non-Germanic languages lack an umlaut, and so the particular pronunciations of the ü and ch sounds in blücher are somewhat lost. The correct pronunciation is ˈblʏçɐ, but you are also likely to hearˈbluːtʃər,ˈblauːtʃər, andˈbluːkər. Germanic language sounds can be very difficult for non-native speakers, so do not feel embarrassed if your pronounce this word differently from Germans – in the menswear sphere while discussing dress shoes, everyone will know what you mean.
Masters the Differences Between Oxfords, Derbies, and Bluchers!
Characteristics of a Derby Shoe
| Feature | On a Derby Shoe |
|---|---|
| Lacing System | Open |
| Pieces | Three pieces, consisting of two quarters sewn together on the heel and one vamp with a tongue. |
| Ankle | Exposed, unlike on a boot or half-boot. |
| Fit | While a derby should generally fit similarly to an oxford, the open lacing system allows for greater latitude when fitting feet. Therefore, bluchers may be more comfortable for you if you have wide feet or a high instep. |
| Formality | Derbies can easily be worn with any ensemble between Casual and Business Attire on the Formality Scale, provided that the type of derby, discussed in greater detail below, is consummate with the dress code. |
| Seasonality | Derbies and bluchers are all-year shoes. In general, lighter-toned shoes are best for warm months, with fun, bright colors potentially being an option in the spring on casual shoes. As the weather gets colder, you can transition into darker colors, progressing from tobacco browns, cognacs, and burgundies into oxblood, dark brown, and black. |
| Materials | As a dress shoe derbies and bluchers are almost always made out of leather, including smooth leathers, suedes, pebbled leathers, and exotics. Some fabric derbies are made as casual hot-weather shoes. |
| Soles | Leather, rubber, like Dainite, and hybrid soles can all be found on derbies and bluchers. |
| Colors | Available in all colors, but most suited, depending on formality, to natural tones like olive, certain blues, and all shades of brown, as well as sedate reddish tones and black. |
| Designs | Unadorned, perforated, or featuring caps, medallions, or similar designs. |
Derby & Blucher Guide FAQ
What is an open-lacing system?
A lacing arrangement in which the quarters are sewn on top of the vamp with the shoelace eyelets facings stitched on top of the quarters, so that, when the shoe is worn and tied, a slight gap between the two lace flaps is visible, or, “open.”
What is a derby shoe?
A derby shoe is a dress shoe, often made of leather, assembled from two quarters sewn together on the heel with one vamp with a tongue, with an open lacing system and a silhouette that leaves the ankle exposed.
What is a blucher?
A blucher is a type of shoe with an open-lacing system in which small pieces of leather are sewn onto the vamp to create the open laces.
What is the difference between a derby and an oxford?
The principle distinction between a derby and an oxford is that the derby has an open lacing system and the oxford has a closed lacing system.
What is the difference between a derby and a balmoral?
A derby is a dress shoe with an open lacing system. A balmoral, or bal, is, most precisely, a relatively formal boot that is very similar to an oxford shoe, featuring, for instance, a closed lacing system, but with the ankle of the wearer covered. In North America, cap-toe oxford shoes are often colloquially referred to as balmorals, but this is technically a misnomer.
Where did the names for derbies and bluchers come from?
It is not known for sure whence the name “derby” originated, but it may have been either the 12th or the 14th Earl of Derby, Edward Smith-Stanley or Edward Smith-Stanley, respectively. It is widely believed that one of these two noblemen commissioned the first derby shoes. It is known that the blucher is named for the Prussian nobleman and military officer Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher, who helped develop the shoes to be worn by the soldiers under his command.
How casual or formal is a derby?
Derbies are more formal than casual shoes, like loafers or boat shoes, but not as formal as oxfords. In some respects, derbies can bridge the gap between casual and formal dress shoes. They can be worn with casual outfits, but also with combinationals and suits. While derbies are sometimes worn with Black Tie, according to conventional Classic Style rules, oxfords or opera pumps are more appropriate for formal evening occasions.
Can oxfords and derbies be worn on the same occasions?
Provided that its detailing is sufficiently formal, a derby can be worn on almost all occasions that an oxford can be worn. While in Continental Europe, black derbies with formal evening shoelaces would sometimes be worn with evening wear, traditionally, Black Tie is the exclusive domain of oxfords and opera pumps.
Can you wear derby shoes with a suit?
Yes, you can. While not as formal as oxfords, derbies are sufficiently formal to not appear incongruous with most suits. Your primary concern will be selecting derbies with colors and detailing that are consumate with the formality of your suit.
Can derby shoes be worn with Black Tie?
In parts of Continental Europe, derbies have been worn with a Black Tie Ensemble, and some famous clotheshorses, including American President Harry S. Truman, were known to wear their derbies with tuxedos. Conventionally, however, tuxedoes and dinner jackets are most worn with black oxfords or opera pumps. If you do want to wear a pair of derbies with a Black Tie ensemble, they should be plain-toed or sedately cap-toed and feature formal shoelaces.
History of the Derby and the Blucher
These Shoes Have an Impressive Pedigree!
Derbies and bluchers are both historic dress shoes that have been worn by gentlemen of style for centuries. The origins of these shoes and how they were traditionally worn, however, have changed drastically through the ages, and there are some elements of mystery in the story!
The Blucher: Born on the Battlefield For Soldiers’ Comfort
Napoleonic Troops Were Accustomed to Unconfomofrtalbe Shoes
In the late 17th and early 18th centuries, the standard issue footwear for the armies of Europe, for both cavalry and infantry units, was the boot. These boots were not the most comfortable or practical of footwear, especially when it came to pulling them on and off. This difficulty was compounded after a hard day’s campaigning, marching, and fighting in fields and roads that became extremely muddy every time it rained.
Gebhard von Blücher Develops a Better Shoe
The inventor of
The Blucher
Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher, later elevated to Prince of Wahlstatt, was a career Prussian army officer known for his tenacious tactics and his fierce devotion to his men. Blücher is widely credited with inventing the piece of footwear that bears his name so that his men could wear their shoes more comfortable and prepare for battle with greater haste.
Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher, a Prussian field marshal during the Napoleonic Wars, decided to develop a new type of footwear that was more comfortable for his men and that would allow them to prepare for battle more quickly. What Blücher needed was a boot that was comfortable for all types of foot types and could be pulled on and off easily.
He eventually devised a half boot with two leather flaps below the ankles that could be laced together. These flaps did not meet at the bottom and had shoelace eyelets arranged in parallel. This innovation resulted in a wider opening for the foot, making the boots more comfortable for people with a wider foot as the width of the boot could be adjusted by tightening or loosening the laces at the bottom of the flaps as they did not meet at the bottom.
Bluchers helped to bring down
Napoleon
Along with the Duke of Wellington, Blücher was one of the chief commanders of the allied forces that defeated Napoleon Bonaparte at the Battle of Waterloo. Blücher and his Prussian forces arrived at a critical time to relieve the British forces and secure the final victory. Their speedy arrival was thanks in no small part to the exceptional blucher boots that they were wearing.
Learn how military uniforms inspired Classic Menswear!
The Earl of Derby: A Likely Contender for Inventor of the Derby
The exact roots of the derby shoe are not entirely clear. By some accounts, the name can be attributed to Edward Smith-Stanley (1752-1834), the 12th Early of Derby, for whom the Derby Stakes were also named. Other sources list the originator as his grandson, Edward George Geoffrey Smith-Stanley (1799-1869), the 14th Earl of Derby. In our opinion, the latter is more likely to have been associated with derby shoes.
In either case, the story goes that the earl had large feet that made it difficult for him to put on his boots. Therefore, his bootmaker created an open lace boot style that allowed him to put on his boots more easily, providing more ample room for his feet.
Other theories, however, hold that the derby shoe was already in rotation as an evolution of the oxford shoe that was designed to accommodate a broader range of feet, and that the Earl of Derby, whichever one it might be, was only responsible for popularizing the shoe, not inventing it.
The Popularity of the Derby Increases
The term “derby,” used to describe a cut of footwear that featured an open lacing system, was first mentioned in Dunkley’s account book of 1862. It was not used in reference to a shoe, however, but to a side-sprung boot.
“[The Derby]: ‘a new tie shoe better than the Oxonian as the seam is not near the tender part of the foot.’”
From St. Crispin’s Magazine
In 1872, however, an article in St. Crispin’s Magazine described derbies as “a new tie [laced] shoe better than the Oxonian [oxford] as the seam is not near the tender part of the foot.” St. Crispin’s Magazine was an important footwear trade periodical named after St. Crispin, the patron saint of shoemakers.
Derbies and Bluchers Dominate the Country, and then the Town
In the closing decades of the 19th century, derbies were reserved primarily for casual occasions and country retreats: they were not commonly seen “in town” and were not considered appropriate for most formal or even business occasions.
During the 20th century, however, the derby increased in popularity as a versatile and visually unique alternative to the oxford dress shoe. Soon, derbies became a favored versatile option for both casual and business day affairs when a pair of oxfords was just too formal.
Derbies and Bluchers Today
Today, derbies and bluchers are some of the most popular dress shoes on the market because of their ability to accommodate a wider range of feet and to have a greater tolerance for good fit than the more tightly-fitting oxford.
While many people consider oxfords, derbies, and bluchers to be, effectively, all the same type of “dress shoe,” understanding the unique history of open-laced shoes and their particular styling potential will allow you to derive the greatest possible utility from these debonair and versatile shoes.
Ensure that your derbies fit perfectly!
Types of Derbies
Select Derbies Appropriate to the Season, Time, and Occasion
Derbies and bluchers are available in a wide variety of styles, types, and designs. These examples are distinguished from each other in several ways, including the presence of perforation, materials, weight, and overall appearance: you will note that many of these variations also exist as oxfords.
Plain Derby
Plain Derby
The plain derby consists of a vamp and quarters and does not feature any other embellishments such as broguing, cap toes, or heel caps. This is considered the most formal among the various types of derbys and is usually available in black, though these days they come in any color under the sun; casual examples are often rendered in suede leather. If you wish to wear derbies with a Black or even White Tie ensemble, as they sometimes do in Austria and other European regions, you will want black plain derbies in, ideally, patent leather.
How to Wear It: Because they are more formal, plain derbies in smooth leathers and sedate colors can be easily paired with suits and are easy to dress up. For something more casual, go with a plain derby shoe in a suede finish in a lighter color. Vibrant suede plain derbies are distinctly casual shoes that, according to Classic Style conventions, are too casual for even Smart Casual occasions. This makes them ideal, therefore, for casual occasions when they can be dressed up or down. They pair marvelously with chinos, denim, and corduroy trousers, and, due to their casual nature, look great with everything from a tee shirt to a sports coat, V-neck or round neck sweater, or cardigan.
Cap Toe Derby
The cap toe derby may or may not feature broguing, though more often than not the broguing is usually restricted to the edge of the toe cap but sometimes you also see medallions. They usually do not feature heel caps though some do. In terms of formality, the cap toe derby is a bit less formal than a plain derby.
How to Wear It: Although technically a step down the formality scale from plain derbies, cap toe derbies without brogueing will, especially today, usually serve as perfectly acceptable alternatives to plain derbies, especially in more formal colors and finishes. In more casual colors and finishes, or when featuring brogueing, cap toe derbies pair beautifully with combinational outfits like sport coat ensembles. They also go well with denim, adding a touch of formality to the outfit that demands a shirt rather than a polo shirt or T-shirt.
Learn to wear any brown shoe beautifully!
Wholecut Blucher
You might assume that a wholecut blucher is an oxymoron, and it technically is: by definition, a wholecut shoe must have uppers cut from a single piece of leather, with no quarters, and therefore, a closed lacing system like an oxford. Because bluchers create their open lacing system with extra leather pieces, however, the addition of leather facings to a wholecut creates the unique and somewhat rare shoe type known as the Wholecut Blucher.
How to Wear It: With its clean and simple lines, the Wholecut Blucher is a very refined and elegant shoe. In formal leather colors and textures, it can function very similarly to a plain derby, provided that the facings are not overly intrusive. More casual wholecut bluchers can be worn under similar conditions to a captoe derby.
Wingtip or Brogued Derby
These distinctive shoes are immediately recognizable with their pointed toe cap, shaped like a ‘W’ or a ‘M’ or ‘U,’ with extensions that can either extend along both sides of the shoe or stop just short of the heel cap; this pattern gives them their name, “wingtip.” They feature broguing both on the edges and in the center and have heel caps when the wings don’t extend along both sides of the shoe. Considered the most informal of derbies, they are available in various types of leathers and can actually be very versatile.
How to Wear It: With its busy brogued detailing, wingtip derbies are the kings of combinational ensembles that leverage the unique look of varied and contrasted colors, textures, and patterns; they also pair well with casual, light-colored suits. While wingtips in dark colors, especially black, can work with more business-minded suits, the effect can still be a little odd and does not reflect the more casual nature of this shoe’s design. For more information on wingtips, please refer to the Brogues Shoe Guide for Men.
A full-brogue wingtip derby is one of our five essential dress shoes!
Apron Toe or Moc Toe Derby
Apron Toe or Moc Toe Derby
An apron toe derby has an additional piece of sewn leather covering the top of the vamp like an apron. This is usually around the upper perimeter of the vamp and does not extend to the end of the toe. The moc toe is very similar to the apron toe, the difference being that while the apron toe simulates an apron the moc toe has an actual moccasin construction i.e. there is no additional piece of leather covering the top of the vamp.
Master all mocs with our guide!
How to Wear It: Although not a casual derby, this style, especially the so-called “bicycle toe” variety, lacks the formality typical of a plain derby. Therefore, to fully follow Classic Style conventions, they should be worn primarily with smart casual ensembles and not suits. An apron toe or moc toe derby, in stately leather colors and textures, can function similarly to a cap toe derby, while more casual iterations exist on the formality scale space between a cap toe derby and a suede plain derby.
White Buck
Originally made of buckskin, which gives them their unique name, buck derbies are now more commonly available in white suede and share the same features as the plain derby. White bucks are traditionally only white or off-white in color. While technically a derby because of its lacing system, the white buck is a shoe with an identity of its own and its own fascinating legacy that functions more like a summer shoe than it does a conventional derby.
How to Wear It: Unlike most derbies, the white buck is a decidedly seasonal shoe best suited to late spring and summer. It pairs beautifully with seersucker and almost every hot and tropical-weight fabric, like fresco. Because hot-weather apparel is generally more casual than its cool-weather counterparts, bucks, with their unique color and brogued detailing, can still be worn with warm-weather suits for daytime events.
Learn more about summer shoes!
Other Styles
All of the general types of derbies we have just listed exist in a multitude of variations, including Norwegians, spectators, and perforated-leather examples. While we cannot discuss them all here, each of these examples is technically a subtype of the larger genera we discussed in detail above.
The Do’s and Don’ts of Derbies
1
Do Wear Derbies as Versatile Liminal Shoes
Although a derby is less formal than an oxford, in today’s world, the derby is more of a crossover shoe that straddles the formal and informal world pretty efficiently. So, if you are on a budget, a dark brown or reddish brown derby can be very versatile.
2
Don’t Wear Derbies As Formal Evening Shoes. Unless …
For very formal evening events, like Black Tie or White Tie, an oxford or an opera pump is most appropriate because the derby has somewhat bulkier lines. That being said, if you do not mind going against the grain, appropriate derbies can be work with Black Tie.
3
Do Employ Classic Colors and Textures
Traditional dress shoes colors, like black, browns, and subtle earth tones, with natural finishes, like smooth, suede, or pebbled, will ensure that your derbies, which are already more casual than oxfords, will maintain maximum versatility.
4
Don’t Wear Dull Derbies
Because of the additional layer of quarters at the vamp, derbies attract the eye, so scuffs and a dull appearance will be very obvious! Make sure that you keep your derbies shined, even if they are more casual than oxfords.
5
Do Wear a Variety of Derbies
There are many different kinds of derbies, suited to various occasions and formalities. Expand your shoe collection to take advantage of all of the unique styling option of this versatile shoe!
Is there such a thing as
Black Tie Derbies?
While conventional Classic Style etiquette dictates that only oxfods and opera pumps should be worn with Black Tie, there is a tradition in Continental Europe of derbies being worn with formal evening ensembles. American President Harry S. Truman, a noted clotheshorse, emulated this style, adding formal evening shoelaces to his derbies when pairing them with a tuxedo.
Three Derby Outfits
Derbies Can Suit an Impressive Range of Looks!
To illustrate just how versatile derbies can be, here are three different looks from across the Formality Scale that all employ derby shoes as their perfect finishing touch.
Chic Style with Dark Derbies
Easily Update Your Derbies with New Shoelaces
Sourcing a variety of derbies, in addition to the other types of shoes in your collection, can be prohibitively expensive. Fortunately, there’s an easy way to make old shoes look new and easily change the formality of any pair of shoes: shoelaces!
It takes just a minute or two to alter the visual effect of any pair of shoes drastically, and of course, it’s completely reversible, unlike adding a patina or dyeing the leather color. By utilizing just five pair of shoelaces, two pairs of derbies can be styled in 50 different looks, all for less than $40.
Shoelaces can impart seasonal flair, with vivid pinks, yellows, or oranges in the warm weather and dark greens, blues, and grays for cooler weather. To liven up an old pair of shoes, select a contrasting color for glamorous visual interest. You can even add formal evening laces if, like Harry S. Truman, you have no problem wearing appropriate derbies to a Black Tie event.
Harmonize Your Derbies With the Seasons
Seasonal Sensation!
Nothing Makes Shoes Pop Like Contrasting Shoelaces
Add Visual Interest!
Evening Shoelaces are a Perfect Formal Touch
Formulate Formality!
Buying Derby & Blucher Shoes
Honest Reviews That You Can Trust
What makes a quality derby or blucher is very similar to what makes any kind of quality dress shoe. Therefore, the articles in our Shoes Archives that illustrate how to discern shoe quality, generally, will help you find a great pair of derbies, individually.
Most shoe brands offer derbies as part of a larger collection of dress shoes. Therefore, brands that you trust and admire for making dress shoes generally are also likely to offer derbies and bluchers that represent a good value. Below, please find a number of brands that make ready-to-wear derbies or bluchers and our ranking of the brand.
Please note that our ranking does not necessarily reflect our assessment of the derbies or bluchers themselves but of the brand more broadly.
See How We Rank Over 50 Men’s Shoe Brands!
$100 to $300
Ranking Men’s Shoes
$200 to $500
Ranking Men’s Shoes
Over $500
Ranking Men’s Shoes
Check out our Is It Worth It reviews for unbiased opinions!
Conclusion
The derby is a versatile and popular shoe with a long and storied history in Classic Menswear. Properly utilized, this fabulous footwear is a vital component of any shoe collection that can be the perfect finishing touch to any ensemble and that will help your entire wardrobe go so much further! We hope that in learning more about the dashing derby and the beautiful blucher, you are excited to step out in style yourself, stylishly shod!
What are your favorite derby shoes, and how do you integrate them into your personal look? Let us know in the comments!
A sensational Scent inspired by
The Derby
Roberto Ugolini crafted a woody and herbaceous fragrance, rich with myrrh and patchouli, as a testament to the decadent versatility of the derby shoe. It is just one of several shoe-inspired scents in his collection.
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